The scent of woodfire, cedar, and a snappy green bloom of black pepper hangs in the humid air surrounding us. A subtle bit of waves rock the houseboat sauna we’re seated inside as the steam hisses off the rocks and surrounds the two of us. The interior of this Cedar + Stone Nordic sauna is sleek Scandinavian design and ingenuity. We came to the shores of Lake Superior, or Gitchee Gumi as its first inhabitants called the Great Lake, to experience serenity and a little bit of this big, little city’s arts, culture, and food.

A long, low horn echoed through the harbor, rousing us from a sweaty reprieve. The sound was answered by a clanging as the bridge in the distance slowly raised its lower level up to the top of the metal structure and a giant ore boat eased out of the slip.

Duluth, Minnesota is a mix of old ways and new ideas. Industrial shipyards, local music around almost every bend, collectives of small makers dedicated to doing things the old ways, and hospitality that makes a person want to plan a trip back before the weekend even ends.

Duluth is near the northern reaches of Minnesota and it’s long been a city that appreciates artistry. While through the industrial age and into the 1980s, it was perhaps better known through its region as an industrial town, with liberal politics and groundbreaking gay leaders. It’s now a thriving community that’s only growing.

In 1986, the city’s first Pride festival was a picnic sponsored by local gay bar The Main; now it’s one of the biggest draws in the region and the second largest in the state. While openness and inclusion—especially of lesbians—was far from overnight, trailblazers created spaces that made this a city easy to fall in love with. With the rise of coffeehouse culture came lesbian-owned and operated coffee shops, bookstores, and music spaces. In 1991, Barbara Neubert pioneered a whole new business with a mobile coffee trailer that would eventually serve as inspiration for a beloved modern-day cafe called At Sarah’s Table. 

Alongside coffee houses, local music and arts flourished. Places like Renegade Theater began as an alternative theater outlet and has evolved since its inception in 1991. For the 2025 season, the theater group will perform Stop Kiss, with the proceeds benefiting a scholarship fund for local LBGTQ+ youth. 

Music is everywhere, and one of the reasons that national acts like the Indigo Girls always include a Duluth stop in their tours. Amy Ray has said the city holds a special place in her heart. One beloved venue is Sacred Heart, a scrappy old church that carries incredible acoustics.

The best way to enjoy Duluth is to get outdoors. Bayfront Park, a city park that doubles as a music venue, is conveniently located right by the sauna boathouse and Pier B Resort. Lake Street Dive will be playing later this summer, and it will also host this year’s Pride Festival over Labor Day weekend. Duluth’s hiking trails are an incredible way to get a break from the people while utilizing the rocky, hilly landscape. Head up to Hawk’s Ridge for spectacular views of the whole city and the chance to spot birds of prey during their migration. My personal favorite is walking from Chester Hill, a sweet Swiss Chalet, and following the babbly river at the bottom of the grassy hill as it makes its way down the steep incline to Lake Superior. If you’re looking for meetups and making new outdoor buddies, check out the LGBTQIA2S+ Duluth / Superior’s public Facebook group, a monthly queer-centric outdoor adventure group.

That’s only a taste of what Duluth has to offer. Here’s everything important you need to know to plan a perfect long weekend in this hidden gem up north. 

Where to Stay:

Pier B Resort: An ideal location, Pier B is situated between the industrial views of Superior, Wisconsin with its active shipyards and the touristy draw of Canal Park. It’s also situated right by Bayfront Park, where most of the large, outdoor concerts of summer are held. It’s easy to walk over to shops and restaurants, and there’s an outdoor hot tub with gorgeous views of the city’s iconic Aerial lift bridge. It’s also incredibly dog-friendly if you’ve got a four-legged family member along for the trip. They’ll get special treats and a greeting at the front desk.

Enger Lofts: Duluth’s Lincoln Park Crafts District is an up-and-coming area filled with small shops and restaurants. Right in the heart of this must-see district sits Enger Lofts, the perfect place to stay if you’re looking for a walkable arts neighborhood location. The lofts are self-check in and balance modern needs in a historic setting. 

Park Point: Search VRBO listings for houses on this extended sandbar isthmus. The Duluth side offers stunning views and miles of beach for strolling. Houses range from quirky little lofts to stately new-money abodes from $290 to $650 a night.

Areas to Explore: 

Canal Park

The DeWitt Sietz Marketplace is a must-stop for small shops and restaurants. On the main level, Lake Avenue Cafe, an ally-owned restaurant that specializes in local, seasonal cooking, is ideal for a romantic dinner. In the basement, Northern Waters Smokehaus makes exceptional sandwiches from its smoked meat and fish. These are great for bringing out onto the rocky shoreline for an impromptu picnic, or to bring along on an afternoon hike. 

There are several galleries to explore including the woman-owned Siiviis Gallery which shows work from local and native artists.

Vikre Distillery was founded by Emily Vikre, who has a passion for local gins. Theirs taste like the Northwoods, flavored with juniper, spruce tips, and more. Enjoy a beverage in the taproom or grab a 4 pack of canned cocktails to enjoy later.

Book a sauna experience at Cedar + Stone, a company that builds custom saunas and hosts events. Over by Bayfront Park, there’s a floating sauna houseboat that’s available to book for groups or make a friend with a public option. Enjoy complimentary herbal tea and a cold plunge in the nearby lake. 

Lincoln Park Crafts District

What was a collection of dilapidated buildings and dive bars has been transformed by a group of small business owners. Led by the owners of the nearby Duluth Grill—an excellent spot for slightly modernized diner fare.

The Lincoln Park Crafts District has become a hotspot for small businesses and restaurants. Shop for outdoor gear, keepsakes like locally made candles and art prints like Anna Bailey’s delicate woodwork, or the Nordic folk art beauty of Tin Cup Design. Her block art collage print of the Superior Hiking Trail hangs above my bed and somehow feels serene and adventurous every time I look at it.

Shop the Dovetail Folk School for artisan crafts, stock up on Frost River outdoor gear that will last a lifetime of adventures, or bring home some rare and vintage vinyl from River City Records and Vinyl. Last time we were in, we scored a vintage Kate Bush tape that I’m excited to play once I finally track down a tape deck.

Food and brews are abundant over here, too. Don’t miss Ritual Salad & Apothecary, the world’s witchiest build-your-own-salad restaurant where crystals and spellbooks make the patriarchy twitch. It feeds my inner angsty poetry-writing teenager on every level. Bent Paddle has fantastic beer, a huge outdoor concert space for live events, and a Black Ale spiked with local coffee that’s the beer alternative to an espresso martini. Wild State Cider has fantastic, crisp (gluten-free!) ciders and a Cremee Cone stand. Speaking of cold treats, coffee at night feels in line with the Nordic vibes, and Love Creamery is a scoop and coffee shop that stays open until 9 p.m. My go-to is a scoop of the vegan maple honeycomb in a cup with a shot of espresso poured over top.

Jade Fountain For my money, this is the best place to go for drinks if you’re a cocktail connoisseur. Owner Kai Soderberg opened this bar in what had been a Chinese restaurant. The room is still bathed in black and red with ornate gold embellishments that feel like a 1960s American Chinese eatery throwback. But, his adds to the decor: 1970s cheeseball art, imposing gothic sculptures, and a beaded door that guards the back lounge area. The drinks alone are worth the price of admission, but the event schedule is a good reason to stay for hours. Favorites include the Burlesque Bingo with Betty Champagne and Crimson Fox.

Speaking of burlesque, check out the Duluth Dolls event schedule. Their shows mix the classic art of giving a little and taking it away with whole-body beauty, pride, and incredible humor. Plus, it is, as one might expect, deliciously gay. If they aren’t performing, Body Electric, is another performance group to track down. It’s a queer co-op of creatives who perform drag, ariel, burlesque, and more.

Support local lesbian businesses

At Sarah’s Table Lesbian-founded and queer-run, they specialize in breakfast and coffee. On sunny days, the back patio offers gorgeous lake views and cool breezes. Don’t miss the GLBT sandwich – guacamole, bacon, lettuce, and tomato.

Positively 3rd Street Bakery is a worker-owned, small town bakery that’s kept the nubby sweater and activism vibes of its early days. Founded in 1983, it’s been fueling Duluth and the region with its craveable Thunder cookies (a mix of peanut butter, chocolate chips, and oats) for generations.

The Best Hikes

Enger Tower is a tall stone structure that overlooks the expanse of the city and port of nearby Superior, Wisc. It’s an easy wander around with a somewhat vigorous climb up to the tower for the views. The Japanese garden park below has some seating and a giant peace bell to ring.

Hawk’s Ridge Observatory There are more hiking and spectacular bird of prey sightings during spring and fall migration seasons. Even when there aren’t as many, there are plenty of winding trails and observation points for a day immersed in the woods with rocky outcroppings for photo moments. Plan a trail via their websites for a bit more vigorous hike.

Chester Creek Trail In the winter, there’s a small ski hill at this park, but in the summer, you can follow this creek’s path all the way down the hill, under the bridges, and down to the big lake. The two-and-a-half mile hike is vigorous if you’re doing the full loop—those trails back up the hill are strenuous. I’ll admit I’m usually more of a scramble-down-the-trail-and-call-an-Uber kind of hiker.

Lakewalk An easy space to amble for miles up to the eastern edge of the city, Duluth put in a wooden structure along the shores of the lake so you can wander from Canal Park up to the Leif Erickson Park with its stone stage where local theaters sometimes perform, and on to a local rose garden. It’s the best by-foot way to take in all the lake views.