Review Of Long Count, An Aged Wine And Vegan Bites Restaurant

Featured Image: photo by Amy Elizabeth

At Long Count, a candlelit bar tucked into Alphabet City, time is the main ingredient. Every pour is at least a decade old, and every plate
leans into fermentation, preservation, and patience.

The night opens with a glass of 2006 Trebbiano—golden and gentle, unfolding slowly with soft acidity and a hint of dried fruit.

Wine director Drew Brady’s list leans on overlooked back vintages, making aged wine more accessible rather than intimidating.

The kitchen follows a similar philosophy. Queer Executive Chef Haley Duren creates her dishes around acidity and depth, letting preserved elements do the heavy-lifting. The entire menu is vegan and shifts every season.

The spring pea salad is soft and green. Edamame and hijiki bring an earthy depth, lifted by delicate folds of yuba. It’s fresh but grounded, each bite clean with a quiet richness.

Then, the allium spread: charred alliums turned sweet and silky, cut through sharp pickled garlic scapes and a glossy chive oil. It’s paired with warm sourdough focaccia to drag through the olive oil and orange vinegar.

The lemon cake is plush and bright, layered with smooth white chocolate ganache, while lacto-fermented raspberries bring a tang that hums beneath it all. The dreamy orange blossom ice cream finishes it off.

Long Count isn’t just about what’s aged in a bottle or fermented in a jar—it’s about what happens when you give things the space to become something fuller. Visit Long Count at 155 Avenue B.

Meena Jalloh is a NYC-based journalist covering culture, identity, and queer life. Her work explores the intersections of Blackness, gender, and storytelling.